Buy Spokeshave
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If they are the same price, Paul would suggest the Stanley. We suggested the Draper spokeshave as an inexpensive, functional option for beginners, however I understand this may not be the case for all countries.
I have purchased Stanley spokeshave according to this guide. I have taken out the blade without paying attention to it if it is bevel down or up. Now, I cannot find any information if the spokeshave is bevel down or not. Is there a PS guide/blog somewhere that I can read
A spokeshave is basically a small handplanes used for shaping and smoothing curved wood. The spokeshave body holds an adjustable blade rigidly against the bed, in a very similar way to a handplane. As mentioned above, spokeshaves were originally used for making wagon wheel spokes, but have moved into being used for other types of woodwork.
Opinions vary on which spokeshaves you need for woodworking, because many people use spokeshaves for different tasks. I will try to explain which spokeshaves excel at certain types of work, and then you can make the decision about which spokeshaves to buy.
My favorite vintage, all metal spokeshave is the Stanley No. 151 spokeshave (also manufactured as the Record A151 spokeshave). It is probably the most popular and best-designed spokeshave. Hand tool expert Jim Bode said of the Stanley 151 spokeshave:
Another very popular, though not as easily adjustable spokeshave is the vintage Stanley No. 51 spokeshave (pictured below). If tuned up, these smaller spokeshaves work great, and are cheaper than the No. 151.
A well-respected chair maker, Brian Boggs, designed an excellent curved-bottom spokeshave for Lie-Nielsen. This is my favorite new spokeshave. The A2 blade keeps a good edge and the castings are nicely machined with a flat bed and cap iron, which all lead to a chatter-free tool that helps prevent tearout. The hickory handles are comfortable and appropriately shaped. The Lie-Nielsen spokeshave comes totally tuned, sharp, and ready to use out of the box. You can buy it here.
With a quick sharpen up the spokeshave needed no additional work at all and the shavings rose full width and full length from the throat. Another element with the spokeshave is the lack of rattle you often get from less expensive makes. The blade is 2.13 mm thick, whereas Stanley and Record versions measured in at between 1.41-1.71mm. Veritas is a massive 3.24mm thick and two Hock irons were 2.38mm and 2.42mm respectively.
I tested all of the spokeshaves alongside the Draper and being more esoteric than scientific my gut impression was that they all cut well and if there was any difference it was in the Veritas, which I think benefits from the added thickness and the wooden handles both of which serve to dampen any vibration.
With a quick test cut (without additional sharpening of the blade), the spokeshave did cut wood. I created a beveled edge on a piece of scrap wood, and it worked perfectly. However, when trying to take full-length cuts, the uneven bottom makes it difficult to get an even shaving.
However, you can buy a new spokeshave from Amazon for as little as $25. You have brands like Stanley, Robert Larson, Taytools, and Woodriver to choose from. Although I have none of them, they all look much higher quality than the Aliexpress version.
The picture above shows the Taytools spokeshave combo that you can get for just $38. You get one flat-bottom and one round-bottom spokeshave, virtually at $18 each. These have pretty high ratings and look like an excellent deal for any woodworker.
The bed of these spokeshaves are machined flat. This is a huge benefit to the user. No longer do you need to flatten the bed of a new tool. These are ready to use right out of the box. This compares to about 1 or 2 hours it might take to get a modern Stanley into decent shape.
The sole of the curved spokeshave is said to be cut for a 5 inch radius. When you look at the sole of the spokeshave you'll realize that is a very gentle curve. For tighter curves the smaller all bronze spokeshave is a better option.
Hickory Handles Before I used this spokeshave, I had some concern regarding the shape of the hickory handles. The handles are round. I thought this might not encourage good hand position. As it turns out, it's actually quite comfortable compared with the contoured metal handles on most Stanley or other common spokeshaves. A contoured handle only works if you are holding it as it was meant to be held. The wooden handles provide ample grip for these tools. Keep in mind that these tools are not flattening wide boards so flexible hand position is a good quality for a spokeshave.
Blade The blades are made of A2 cryogenically treated steel hardened to a Rockwell of 60-62 . This steel is very popular among tool manufacturers these days. I've had good experiences with this type of steel so I can only share my empirical evidence and can't back it up with any science, so lets just say that A2 is good steel. The blade is 2\" wide and 1/8\" thick. The thickness really separates this from my chattery little Stanley 151 spokeshave. These tools feel rock solid in use.
These tools do not disappoint. They are ready to use right out of the box. Even when compared to properly tuned up planes, these are beyond compare. Sure, they each cost as much as 4 or 5 inferior spokeshaves, but having a numerous inferior tools doesn't equal one good quality tool. I can only use one tool at a time so it may as well be the right one.
A spokeshave ( above) more closely resembles a hand plane, with its adjustable, replaceable blade fitted tightly to the tool's body for finer shavings. The short sole of a spokeshave comes flat or rounded, making it a good choice for shaping and smoothing curved and flat surfaces that other tools can't, such as cleaning up a cabriole leg after bandsawing it to rough shape. Unlike a drawknife, you can push or pull a spokeshave, depending on grain direction and the most comfortable working position.
The best value is the Veritas spokeshave kit, which provides the plan for making one along with the blade and other metal parts that go into it. I've made one which has proved a fine tool; and would have made another if the availability hadn't dried up.
I'm a spokeshave junkie. I have all the vintage types you've heard of, and many you haven't. I have the Veritas flat, round, low angle, and small. I have wooden shaves from Ernie Conover, Caleb James, and a host of others.
In addition to the above advice I will chip in a bit more. If you are doing green woodworking for things like country or Windsor chairs, you should build a shave horse. There are several designs to choose from. To break down green wood you should get and learn how to use draw knives. I have several vintage draw knives with different attack angles and use them accordingly. Learn how to do shear cuts. You will quickly learn about grain direction and what will work on a particular item. I do not have expensive spokeshaves and with sharp blades I can get good results with green or soft wood. I even used one of the above cursed Kunz's on my last project to good advantage. These were three legged stools using Lowe's finest 2 x 8 dimensional lumber, a Covid isolation project.
Our flat spokeshave will quickly become a favorite as it is so easy to use. Designed for smooth, effective shaping of chair spindles, panel edges, paddles and tool handles, or other shaping, it has a 1/8\\\" thick blade, machined lever cap, and blade bed that achieve chatterfree cutting in virtually all conditions.
Our flat spokeshave will quickly become a favorite as it is so easy to use. Designed for smooth, effective shaping of chair spindles, panel edges, paddles and tool handles, or other shaping, it has a 1/8\" thick blade, machined lever cap, and blade bed that achieve chatterfree cutting in virtually all conditions.
Next, shape the sole if you want it rounded or flat. This can be made any way you want to fit your uses. The handles also can be shaped with chisels to remove most of the waste. And then rasps and files or another spokeshave. There you go. A functional spokeshave.
Yours was a very well-done instructable in most every aspect and should be a winner!I I would have liked it better if you began with even only 45 seconds of an explanation about what a spokeshave is, what it does and how to use it. The video portion to go along with the text should contain close-ups of the tool and a pointing device (slender contrasting colored stick made with a spokeshave) \"touching/sliding over the parts as you speak and of course, you actually using the tool in different ways on an actual project with the words such as you briefly did at the end of the video. It does not need to be long for this type of intro. In fact, you did well with brevity, yet clarity--just reorder your video and elaborate on the portions as I expressed above. Another really nice \"bonus' would have been to include a few shots of ways the average Joe (or Jane!) could use this tool around their house/yard. I am thinking of uses such as to shave off a small splinter on a fence or planter, or get into to tough to reach places on a project. (Unless I am wrong about this).
I am a very beginner woodworker, and I had never heard the term \"spokeshave\". If you made these changes as I delineated above, i It would excite me (and others) into thinking --\"Hey, I could really use one of these. I am going to make one this week!\" Nevertheless, since my mind is always whirring with ideas, I will make one!
I suspect that most of today's beginning woodworkers have never held a spokeshave unless when visiting a very well furnished shop, or when perusing items on sale in a woodworker's specialty store, or as fortunate as I was, when, despite being enrolled in an academic program during the 8th grade, 60 years ago, was instructed on the use of the spokeshave and the drawknife. I suspect that I won't likely need one unless I eventually build the great wooden clock movement that has one very large wheel which would look much more elegant with spokes. None-the-less, if I were to find a suitable very small iron, I would pick it up. I had enjoyed carving odd things back then, including two wood chains, a combination lock, and a few years later, a walnut capo with band of very heavy monofilament and peg of carved walnut for my guitar. 59ce067264
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